two or three button suit – my taste

I think that for me three-button suit works best.  Or rather, made me more fashionable. :p

  • Even though two-button suits are the ultimate classic, I have long torso.  As long as the three button have classic cut, it works for me.
  • Three button reach higher on the chest and are more comfortable and visually appealing to wear for tall guys like me.
  • Three button is popular for this decade.
  • Leaving all the buttons undone, so that I dont look stiff.
  • I appear rather awkward in a two button suit.
  • If i needed more confidence, I just close the middle button.
  • Dont ever close the last button because it will distort the drape shape of the fabric.

Washing car tips


Wash your car regularly – I’d recommend to do this at least once a month. Things like bugs, bird’s dropping, or limestone dripping damage the paint leaving permanent stains if not washed off in time. When the car is clean, all the moisture dries up quickly, but when it’s dirty, the moisture accumulates in dirty areas causing corrosion. At least once in a while use pressure wash (pressure wash can be found at coin car wash stations) – it removes the dirt from difficult to reach areas. Don’t hold the pressure wash jet too close to the painted surfaces, it can peel off the loose paint. Wash off all the places where the dirt and salt could be accumulated; for example, behind moldings, inside wheel arches, under the bumpers, etc. It’s particularly helpful after winter season – to wash out all the salt accumulations that speed up the corrosion process. Don’t forget to wash all the dirt from the windshield. The sand that left out on the windshield gets caught by the windshield wipers blades and scratches the windshield when the wipers are operating.

How to wax your car


Wax your car regularly. A car wax gives shiny look to your car and helps to shield the paint from harsh environment, protecting it from fading. It takes only about 30 minutes to wax a whole car and high-quality car wax stays on the car for three – four months. So far, I haven’t seen a single product that stays for life time as you may have heard in some commercials – nothing lasts forever. In order to maintain protective coat any product needs to be reapplied periodically.
Follow this link for illustrations:
How to wax a car

Undercoating and rustproofing your vehicle

Brake proportioning valve

If you live in an area with high humidity, or where the salt use is common in winter months, undercoating and rustproofing you car can be very helpful. Look at the picture, this is a part of the brake system located underneath the car, it’s completely rusted as you can see. This is only five years old vehicle from a high humidity, coastal area. Sometimes later one of these brake lines can burst and the car will have no brakes.
Properly done undercoating and rustproofing can protect important components of the car from corrosion.

How to remove residue marks (paint) left by other objects


This mark on the bumper was made in the underground parking. If you look very closely it’s actually white paint residue over original clearcoat. The clearcoat itself seems to be damaged only slightly. I’ll try to remove this mark.


All I need for this is ultra-fine 1500-grit or 2000-grit waterproof sandpaper (the higher number stands for the finest abrasive), polishing compound containing mild abrasive (I used the Turtle Wax) and a car wax (I used Turtle Wax liquid car wax with Carnauba).


Very carefully (I don’t want to remove the clearcoat) I sand the marks with wet sandpaper (use only ultra-fine waterproof sandpaper) until all marks are gone. If you have never done it before, try on some small spot to see how it works first.
Now there is no mark, but the clearcoat has lost its shine; I will use polishing compound to restore the shine.


I put small amount of the polishing compound onto the damp sponge and rub well until the clearcoat becomes shiny.


Last step, I buff the area with the car wax.

How to repair car stone chips


The stone chips if not repaired in time will cause corrosion like in this photo. That’s why it’s good idea to repair stone chips as soon as they appear.


This one is not corroded yet, so we’ll try to repair it. The car is clean and dry and we have all we need – the matching spray paint ordered from a dealer and a toothpick. If you have a touch-up paint with the brush you can use it instead, although I found that with a sharp toothpick you can do more accurate job.


After shaking the spray paint very well (for a few minutes) spray very small amount into the cap


Now, slightly deep the end of the toothpick into the paint in the cap. Very carefully, I’m trying to barely fill up the damage with the paint without letting it to come out.


Now it looks much better and it won’t be corroded later.

How to wax a car

Wax forms thin transparent layer over the paint that covers minor scratches
Waxing gives your car natural shine and helps to protect the paint from harsh environment. When applied, the wax forms a thin transparent layer over the car paint. This layer covers minor scratches, stone chips and other damages, making them less visible. The wax also ‘seals’ the paint, preventing water from contacting the bare metal exposed in deep chips and scratches, slowing down the corrosion process.
For best results, a wax needs to be reapplied regularly – none of the available car wax products will stay permanently on your car. From my observations, a good-quality car wax stays on the car for about three-four months, so if you wax your car at least every three months using a good product, you’ll be OK.

If a car hasn’t been waxed in a very long time, first, it make sense to take it to a local detailing shop, or you can visit your dealer (e.g. for an oil change) and ask for one of those detailing packages they offer. What they do, they buff the car with electrical buffer using special polishing compound containing a mild abrasive to remove light scratches, hard stains and other impurities on the paint, then they wax it. After your car has been detailed, you can simply reapply wax every three months or so to keep it shiny.

To wax your car you will need some good quality wax (e.g. Carnauba wax), a small soft sponge and a clean soft cloth towel. Your car must be very clean and dry. I usually wax my car right after washing it at the coin car wash; the whole process of washing, drying and waxing takes about an hour.
Make sure to choose the right product – you need the wax with no abrasives. Read the directions on the package for any specific product and test it on some small area first.
Park your car somewhere in the shadow – usually it works better when the car surface is cool to the touch. Work on one section at the time, for example, on one fender or door.

car_wax1 If you use liquid wax, shake the bottle well before use. Apply small amount of wax to the sponge and spread it evenly on one section of the car. It’s good idea to start from the top and do the bottom panels last because there is always some dirt left at the bottom.
car_wax2 You want to make a thin, even layer of wax. Try not to touch the surfaces like black window trim, rubber door seals and black matte plastic – the wax will leave white stains on them. Work on one section at the time.
car_wax3 Allow the wax to haze (takes about a minute or two). Then buff it to a perfect shine with clean soft towel, rotating it frequently – clean part of the towel works best.
car_wax4 After the whole car is done, clean the wax from matte unpainted surfaces (e.g. plastic mouldings, unpainted bumper, rubber door seals). Window spray cleaner will work well for this purpose.
civic I recommend to wax your car regularly, for example, once in every three months. I tried many products and non of them stays permanently. Any car wax needs to be reapplied regularly.

How to remove minor paint scratches

How to remove minor scratches

car_care5 Look at the image, these scratches on the trunk were made by the bushes.
It’s not a big problem, but…
I will remove these scratches in two steps:
First, I use polishing compound to polish the scratches. It contains mild abrasive and removes very thin coat of painting. When you will shop for this kind of product, there are few grades available. You need the one that contains the finest abrasive.
car_care6 I put a little amount of polishing compound onto a damp sponge and buff the scratched area in a circular motion until scratches disappear. But don’t overdo it. I’d suggest trying a small area first, to get used to the process. Then I wash off the area completely.
car_care7Now it’s time to use a liquid wax. I squeeze a little amount of wax onto a sponge and spread evenly on the scratched area. I wait a little allowing product to haze, then, using a soft towel, I buff the wax.
car_care8 Now you see the result.

The Perfect Shine Process


How do detailers get cars looking so picture-perfect?  “What wax do you use?” and “What’s the best black car wax?” are the questions that come up most often.  Unfortunately, it’s not quite that simple.

If you want the perfect shine, you have to do a little work, and you have to work to keep it maintained.  If your car’s paint is relatively new and in excellent condition, getting the perfect shine will be far less work than with a car that’s five or more years old with heavy oxidation.

The classic car polishing process I’m about to explain came from years of experimenting with dozens of car polish and wax combinations to discover what products produced the best results.  As it happens, this process was discovered quite by accident after applying a carnauba wax over a synthetic sealant on a Guards Red Porsche 944 Turbo. The finish was noticeably deeper, richer and more vibrant.  The paint had taken on a new depth, like it had a clearcoat finish.

The Perfect Shine classic car polishing and detailing process was born. Grab your auto detailing supplies and let’s get started! Although this process works well on all cars, it has the most dramatic effect on dark colors.


The perfect shine car polish and wax process means your car’s paint finish is in good condition, free of surface contamination, polished, glazed, protected and waxed.  Let’s look at each of these requirements individually.

Good Paint Condition

For the first 12 to 18 months of a new car’s life, the paint is relatively oxidation-free and in good condition.  If you maintain your new car’s paint with regular washing and protection, oxidation will remain minimal, and cleaning the paint will be a minor task.  At a minimum, you should wash your car weekly.   If you don’t have time to wash weekly, use the Quick Detailing process.


As you drive your car, debris from the road (i.e., tar, oil, bugs, etc.) will lodge itself on your car’s paint.  The longer this debris is allowed to remain, the more difficult it is to remove.  This is just one reason that regular washing with quality shampoo and other auto detailing supplies is so important.  While outside, your car will also collect other contamination.  (Birds, bugs and neighborhood kids seem to have a natural attraction to beautiful cars.)  These contaminants must be removed; you can’t wax over them and expect to get a show car finish.


Polishing is necessary to remove minor blemishes, including surface scratches, swirl marks, pitted areas (minor road stone nicks) and scuffs.  When polished, the paint finish will feel perfectly smooth.  Your hand and polishing towel will literally glide over the surface.  Feeling a perfectly polished car is a stimulating experience for most car nuts.  There’s nothing quite like the polished fenders of a curvaceous Porsche, Ferrari, Viper or Corvette.


Glaze is a term that’s grossly misused in detailing products.  Glazes are paint treatments used to fill small surface scratches and swirl marks.  To a painter, glaze is the term used to describe the process of restoring full paint gloss.  In The Perfect Shine, ultra-fine polishes and other similar auto detailing supplies are used to refine the paint finish to achieve or restore full gloss.


Paint is protected when it’s sealed from the elements and synthetic sealants offer the best protection.  Synthetic coatings are five to ten times more durable than the carnauba waxes.  They offer extended protection from the elements and create a super-slick surface.  In The Perfect Shine process, the synthetic protection is an acrylic sealant.  I have not found a polymer sealant that works.  I will explain why later.


Waxing is the final step of The Perfect Shine.  We’re not talking just any wax here; we’re talking about a pure, natural carnauba wax.  Pure carnauba waxes don’t have cleaning properties or synthetic compounds added.  They are made from a blend of carnauba waxes, beeswax and natural oils.  A quality show car wax gives paint depth and warmth.  I know, I know, it sounds like we’re talking about a fine wine or something.  Just don’t underestimate the value of a great show car wax when it comes to the final results of your car’s finish.


The Perfect Shine is a simple process that reliably achieves the best shine possible on any paint finish.  Grab the auto detailing supplies listed here and follow these steps and product recommendations:

Step 1: Wash & Dry

Wash your car twice with a high concentration of car wash solution.  I recommend a gloss shampoo.  If your car is excessively dirty, you can use Dawn dish-washing liquid.  If you do, be sure to rinse thoroughly.

Step 2: Detailing Clay

After washing and drying, examine your car’s paint with your hand.  If the paint is not perfectly smooth, use a paint-cleaning clay system and clay lubricant to remove the surface contamination. Inspect your clay frequently to check for hard particles, which should be picked out.  Re-mold the clay when it gets dirty to expose fresh clay.

Step 3: Repair Paint Damage

When the paint is clean and free of surface contamination, examine again for minor surface damage.  If you find heavy scuffs or surface scratches, repair these flaws with a fine rubbing compound or scratch remover, like Sonus SFX-1 Restore Polish.  If your paint has swirl marks and other minor micro marring, use a swirl remover polish, like Sonus SFX-2 Enhance Polish.  You can polish by hand or machine.  Working by machine tends to work faster and deliver better results.

Step 4: Restore Finish Clarity

Now it’s time to glaze your paint to bring out its full gloss potential.  For this I recommend a swirl-remover polish formula like Sonus SFX-2 Enhance Polish.  Swirl-remover polishes are designed to remove fine swirl marks, not the heavy paint damage removed in the previous step.  If your paintwork is already in perfect condition, you can skip this step.

Step 5: Seal and Protect

Once perfectly polished, your paint is ready to be sealed.  This is a great time to a product that’s been protecting cars for years, Klasse All-In-One.  The Klasse AIO acrylic formula has proven its quality again and again.

Klasse All-In-One is a one-step acrylic resin that cleans, lightly polishes and protects paint with a durable acrylic finish.  The best way to apply Klasse All-In-One is with a microfiber applicator.  Klasse All-In-One contains cleaners that remove previous layers of Klasse All-In-One.

If you wish to apply additional Klasse acrylic protection, you can apply one or more coats of Klasse Sealant Glaze.  Klasse Sealant Glaze does not contain cleaners; it is a pure acrylic sealant.  Additional layers of Klasse Sealant Glaze will increase protection and finish depth.

Step 6: Make it Pop!

You’re almost there.  The final step, the literal icing on the cake, is show car wax.  You may be asking, “After polishing and sealing, why wax?”  The answer lies in the richness of color, depth and clarity that only a high-quality carnauba wax can bring out on a polished surface.  For this job I reach for P21S Carnauba Wax.  P21S Carnauba Wax is a true show car wax.

Compared to other show car waxes of similar formula, for the money P21S offers the best final finish.  P21S Carnauba Wax brings out a warmth and depth on red and yellow that I have not been able to duplicate with any other wax under $70 per can.  It’s by far the best black car wax – on black and dark blue cars, the paint looks like a reflection in a pool of water.

On steps four through six, I use a quality foam applicator to apply product (except Klasse Sealant Glaze, which requires a microfiber applicator).  For final buffing of the P21S Carnauba Wax, I use a Sonus Der Wunder Buffing Towel.

How to check manual transmission

How to check manual transmission

First, check for oil leaks. There should be no leaks.

Manual transmission test drive:

Use more caution when test driving someone else’s vehicle – the mirrors, the driver’s seat, etc. may not be adjusted properly for you. First, get use to brake pedal feeling, adjust the mirrors, driver’s seat, and learn all the controls of the vehicle. Proceed to drive only when you sure it’s safe.

Now, (with caution – safety first!), shift the transmission lever into neutral. Apply the parking brake. With the engine idling, press the clutch pedal all the way, hold it down, and listen for noises. Then release the pedal and listen for noises again. There should be no loud noises at either positions.
The next step is the test drive.
Try to drive the vehicle at different speeds in all gears, one by one. Every gear should shift smoothly and easily without any noises or jerks. While driving at the second or third gear, try to press down sharply on the accelerator pedal for an instance. The clutch should not slip.
If you feel any slipping (e.g. the engine rpm increases but the speed remains the same), the clutch most likely has to be replaced.
Try to drive with acceleration and deceleration – there should be no grinding, whining or humming noise under any condition. All the gears should shift easily and noiselessly.